Big Sur, California is situating on the central Pacific coastal boarded by Carmel-by-the-sea to the North and San Simeon to the south. Its dense forests, vast Sierra mountains and turquoise blue waters attract millions of hikers and tourists from around the world. Big Sur beaches are mainly rocky and the water is almost always too cold for swimming but those are moot points when you are engulfed by the impressive Pacific Ocean and magical forests.
Situated at a high elevation, Highway 1 is the only main road in Big Sur and famous worldwide for its unparalleled views, windy roads, and overall epic scenery. Most people prefer to drive North to South so the ocean views are easiest to view. Other than paid parking lots, parking in Big Sur is limited to pulling over on the side of the road. There are seldom guardrails and walking along the side of the road can be unsafe.
We stayed at an AirBnB in the Carmel Valley mountains about 45 minutes northeast from the entrance to Big Sur. The property was secluded and lovely but does require driving around VERY windy roads and adds a lot of time to your drive if you plan to visit Big Sur or Carmel by the Sea often during your trip. It is definitely a more affordable option if you are okay with the windy, long commute and being very much off the beaten path.
Check out these things to do in Big Sur, California.
We drove to Big Sur from San Diego on Labor Weekend, so we drove South to North by default. After driving for about 6 hours, our first stop was the Cruickshank Trail. This trail is dog friendly and is about 6 miles roundtrip. The trailhead is along the highway and the only option for parking is on the side of the road. Parking was fairly easy for us (Friday afternoon) but I imagine it can get populated here. There is no restroom or trashcan close by.
The trail starts with a steep but worth it incline. Once you hit the stop, the views are incredible! This was our first taste of Big Sur on this trip, and it didn’t disappoint. Spend some time here soaking in the gorgeous scenery. As you continue onward, you will enter Los Padres National Forest via the Silver Peak trail and start to see some Redwoods. The trail was not maintained when we were there and was lined with poison oak. If we were to do this again, we’d probably turn around after enjoying the 360 views and before turning into the forests (at the Silver Creek Trail sign).
Tip: Make sure you know what poison oak looks like, wear pants and long sleeves, and plan to wash off (your dog too!) immediately after the hike.
Our next stop as we continue north was Mill Creek Trail. Mill Creek Trail is a little over 3-mile loop trail. Typically access to Mill Creek Trail is from Nacimiento-Fergusson Road but this road has apparently been closed for over two years so like most trails in Big Sur, access to the trailhead was close to Highway 1.
We walked up Nacimiento-Fergusson Road about a mile before hitting the trailhead. At the trailhead, we noticed a sign mentioning that the trail was closed ahead so we went off-trail, down to the river and walked along the river back to the Highway. I wouldn’t recommend this route as there were lots of prickles that clung to our clothes and were hard to remove. However, our dog loved frolicking here as there were streams, deer smells, and grassy areas to explore!
After checking into our AirBnB, we found dinner in Carmel-by-the-Sea at Tree House Café Carmel. We sat outside on their dog-friendly terrace and enjoyed their food and lovely wait staff. We felt so welcome here and highly recommend Tree House Café to locals and visitors alike.
Carmel-by-the-Sea is located just above Carmel Beach and is quite charming with lots of local shops and restaurants. It’s fun to walk around and take in the picturesque vibes of the beach town.
Before visiting the hot spots in Big Sur, we stopped at Carmel Valley Coffee in the Barnyard shopping center as it was right on our way. Highly recommend supporting this local coffee shop!
Our first stop of the day in Big Sur was McWay Falls. This waterfall is one of the most popular sights in Big Sur so we wanted to get there early. Parking was available on the street (there’s a fee lot adjacent to the waterfall trail) but was full by the time we left around 9:30am.
The trail is very accessible and at parts where it’s steep, there are ropes and fences to protect you. The waterfall was flowing in late August but some parts of the viewpoint were closed due to erosion of the cliffs. We ended up getting the best view from the other side of the road so definitely explore and admire the waterfall from all different angles.
Our next step was Partington Cove Trail, just a couple of miles down the road from McWay Falls. I don’t recommend walking as Highway 1 does not have any sidewalks. We drove and parked close to the entrance of Partington Cove Trail. There seemed to be plenty of parking on Highway 1 but no parking lot. Partington Cove Trail starts at the highest point of the trail, so your workout is on the way back. Once you descend, there are really two separate coves to discover – one through the tunnel and the other just north following the river. Make sure you visit both as both are postcard-worthy in their own way. We spent some time climbing rocks, taking pictures, and inhaling the fresh air of the Pacific Ocean. If you follow the river inland, you will stumble upon some Sequoias as well.
Tip: As I mentioned before, Big Sur is covered in poison oak in the summer. There was a lot of poison oak on this trail. Make sure to wear long sleeves and pants and keep an eye out for poison oak.
As we headed north back to our AirBnB, we were met with a traffic jam due to a power line and tree blocking the road. Therefore, we were stuck in Big Sur (unless we drove 2-3 hours south and around) for a bit. It’s not the worst place in the world to be stuck so we devoured some lunch at Big Sur Bakery and drove South, stopping at vistas on the side of Highway 1 along the way.
Tip: According to the locals, road closures north or south are common so bring extras just in case! Highway 1 didn’t open again for about 3-4 hours.
For dinner, we met some friends and enjoyed pretzels and beers at Monterey Brewery and Grill, a dog-friendly restaurant with local brews, bar food, and a nice patio. We followed dinner with organic ice cream at Revival which was quite delicious (but we did wait in line for about 45 minutes). Recommend the Bee’s Knees flavor – it’s what they are known for!
For our final full day, we stopped at Carmel Valley Coffee again, of course before heading to Point Lobos State Natural Reserve. The parking lot and parking on Highway 1 gets full quickly so make sure to arrive early if it’s a weekend. There was a lot of poison oak here too but because it’s privately owned, they do a nice job of keeping it off the trail.
Point Lobos State Park is absolutely stunning! We started off on the South Shore trail and spent about an hour enjoying the south end of the park. Then we ventured north via the North Shore trail to Cypress Cove and returned via Cypress Grove Trail and Lace Lichen Trail. We preferred the north end to the south end as the north end had beautiful Monterey Cypress trees and crystal blue views of the Pacific Ocean. It’s worth spending a lot of time in here as the scenery is just beautiful and unique. Despite its tourist attraction vibes, This may have been our favorite spot of the whole trip!
We were famished after walking all over the park and stopped at Sur at the Barnyard for brunch.
After scooping our dog up at the AirBnB (dogs aren’t allowed at Point Lobos State Park), we relaxed a bit and headed to see the Lone Cypress at Pebble Beach. To see the Long Cypress, you must pay an entrance fee per car ($11.25 in 2022) into Pebble Beach. The Lone Cypress is part of the famous 17-mile drive that passes through Pebble Beach. Once you arrive at the Lone Cypress, there is scarce parking. After finally parallel parking close by, we walked onto the pier and competed with the other tourists for the money shot of the Lone Cypress.
Tip: We found Pebble Beach and the Lone Cypress to be a tourist trap and quite underwhelming. You can see just as much beauty throughout Big Sur and Point Lobos Natural Reserve. Of course, there’s a reason it’s so popular so it may just be your cup of tea!
For dinner, we met friends at Basil in Carmel-by-the-Sea. We made the mistake of not making a reservation for dinner during Labor Day weekend and boy did we pay for it. There was over an hour wait at every restaurant and the downtown was packed. Highly recommend reserving space a couple of weeks in advance to enjoy dinner at your desired restaurant.
Overall, Big Sur is a must see with its windy Highway 1, lush coastline, and unbelievable views. Carmel-by-the-Sea is a love-able town close by to the North that is perfect to enjoy after a long day of hiking. Big Sur is not very dog friendly so make sure you plan ahead if you are bringing your pup!
We missed a few key spots in Big Sur due to timing and preference. We drove over Bixby Bridge (didn’t stop for pictures but many people were and it is an awesome bridge!). Pfieffer Falls was on our list but we didn’t make it due to the road closure I mentioned on Day 2. We skipped Cannery Row the Wharf and other popular spots on Monterey but they are likely great spots if you are bringing along the kids!
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